Mamiya C330 Serial Number Lookup

The right side of the camera no longer has the lens distance scale window. It has moved to the left side of the body. This six sided scale is interchangeable and can be switched to a variety of focal lengths by rotation of the knob. The lens parallax selector knob has been redesigned with more focal lengths which now include the 55mm, 65mm, and 250mm lenses.

The film transport system is similar to the the previous C33 model, the C330 uses a film advance crank and supports cocking of the shutter automatically during the winding stage. Unlike the C33, the winding can be done in a single clockwise 360 degree rotation, and cannot be turned backwards. The back cover no longer has the film loaded red window, as it fully supports both 120 and 220 film. It uses a rotating pressure plate inside the back, which also switched the film type display window. The film counter is automatically adjusted for 120 or 220 film. The back cover can be removed and replaced with the single exposure cut film sheet back. Removing the back requires opening the cover half way and sliding the metal hinge release.

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There are two shutter releases, one on the lower right hand side base of the body and another plastic downward firing one at the right side of the front standard. They can be locked by sliding a small dial to the L position by the downward release. The one on the base supports a screw in cable release. The tripod socket can accept both 1/4' and 3/8'.

C330 left/back image by Studioesper(Image rights)

C330 Professional F

A revised version was released in 1972 as the C330 Professional F aka C330f, it can be identified by a focus-locking lever on the left focus knob. Move this lever towards the front of the body to lock the focus. The lens parallax selector knob has also been revised and no longer contains the ASA film speed reminder window. Instead of the ASA window, the back has added a film memo holder which sits on top of the 120/220 film format window.

C330f image by Peter M Lerman(Image rights)

C330f left/back view image by Peter M Lerman(Image rights)

C330f focus lock and scale image by Studioesper(Image rights)

C330f focus screen holder image by Studioesper(Image rights)

C330 Professional S

C330S image by big-film(Image rights)

The final version C330 Professional S aka C330S was released in 1983. It is nearly identical to the previous version. The body is lighter because more plastic parts have been used. The shutter release lock has been changed and is now at the right side of body instead of the front standard. A newer single action waist level finder was introduced. This wlf is also enclosed when the magnifier is used.

The lens distance scale has changed. 55mm, 65mm and 80mm scales can be viewed easily at the window marked in orange. Since the various 105mm lenses differ there are multiple scales for 105mm. The scales are available in meter or feet. Though interchangeable, previous C330 scales are incompatible with the S model.

The focus screen have changed and are incompatible with the previous C330 and C330f. The screen holder cannot be detached from the body. It hinges up from the front of the camera allowing screen insertion and removal. The camera back is still removable but is not compatible with any of the single exposure sheet film backs. The strap lugs are no longer a slot type.

A limited version called Mamiya C330 Special Selection was also made. The body is identical except for different lizard leatherette and gold plate on the front with Special Selection in a script text instead of the traditional Professional text. There are various bits that have changed from chrome to gold. The included 80mm lens also has gold rings.

Links

• Mamiya C330 / C330f / C330S manuals at Mike Butkus' Orphan Cameras
• Mamiya C330 Professional by luis triguez

Mamiya C-Series Cameras

The Mamiya C-series TLRs have been around for quite some time, with the original Mamiyaflex C being released in 1956 or 1957. Shortly after that, the line split into two with the C2 and the C3 (the latter being the slightly more advanced model). Subsequent generations continued in this fashion with the C22/C33, and finally C220/C330 and variants (C220f, C330f, C330s).
After the Rolleicord III stole my heart, there was very little chance that it would be my last TLR. The
next focal point for my obsession was the Mamiya C330. After much searching on eBay and Craigslist, I found a near-perfect specimen sporting a Mamiya-Sekor 80mm f/2.8 'Blue Dot' lens pair.
This particular model (with no suffix) was in production from 1969 to 1974. It had several improvements over its predecessor the C33, including support for both 120 and 220 film (by rotating a plate on the film door), and interchangeable focus screens.
What attracted me to the C330 in the first place was primarily the interchangeable lens system, which is pretty unique to TLRs; in fact the Mamiya C-series is one of only three systems with that feature, and with an entry cost ranging from about $150 to about $400 at the high end, it's the only one that doesn't currently cost as much as a decent used car.
So how does it fare in the real world, and do you want to buy one? (Spoiler: awesome, and yes)

Overall Feel

It is a bit bigger (and heavier) than many of the other TLR offerings out there, including the Rolleicord. It's built like an absolute tank, intent on taking any and all abuse thrown at it by professional photographers. Everything about it feels heavy duty, even changing out the lens feels more like changing a tire than handling high end optics. At the same time, if you love cameras like I do, you will love the way this camera looks and feels in your hands. It's just beautiful.
Handholding takes a little getting used to, especially if you're not accustomed to TLRs. I think everyone has their own preference, but I personally 'cradle' the camera in both hands along the bottom, which puts both of the shutter release buttons within reach and allows my fingers to naturally rest by the focusing knob. It also helps to mitigate the weight a little bit and improve handheld stability.

Interchangeable Lenses

All of the C-series lens pairs will fit any model. Seven different focal lengths are available (50mm f/4.5, 65mm f/3.5, 80mm f/2.8, 105mm f/3.5, 135mm f/4.5, 180mm f/4.5, 250mm f/4.5) although there are a number of variations within that set popping up over the years, some with improved optics over the previous versions but all retaining their maximum aperture.

The 'everything' dial: Lens change lock, Film speed and film type reminders, and parallax correction dial

On the C330, the process of changing the lens pair is a bit more complicated than with a standard bayonet or screw-mount SLR. There is a two-position dial by your left hand that activates the lens lock. The normal state for this dial is in the LOCK position, which signifies that the lens retaining bar cannot be removed, keeping the lens securely in place. When switched to the UNLOCK mode, the lens retaining bar can be swung out of the way, allowing the lens pair to be removed from the camera. Switching to the unlock mode also flips a protective shield in front of the film plane, allowing the lens to be switched out without exposing the film.
The new lens can then be placed on the camera (taking care to ensure that it's sitting flush and that the shutter cocking lever on the camera is correctly positioned above the one on the lens), the retaining bar returned to its position, and the dial returned to the LOCK

Mamiya C330 Serial Number Lookup 2327976

position.
It turns out that I actually hardly ever swap out the lenses, opting instead to keep the 80mm f/2.8 on the camera 90% of the time. If I knew then what I do now (namely that I wouldn't change out the lenses nearly as often as I had originally thought), would I have still bought this camera? Probably, yes. I think part of my problem is just that I shouldn't have bought the second lens that I did, the 65mm f/3.5. It's an excellent lens, but it's too close to the 80mm to make that much of a difference -- I could just back up a few steps and get basically the same effect. Okay, maybe not with landscapes. But you get the idea. I probably should have held out for the 55mm.

Focusing System and Parallax

Bellows focusing system allows for unusually close minimum focusing distance

There are two main drawbacks to having this close focus ability: parallax error and light loss. Parallax error refers to the fact that the viewing lens is sitting on top of the taking lens, so the closer you get to your subject the bigger the difference in what the viewing lens sees versus what the taking lens sees. Light loss is due to the fact that the farther the lens is from the film plane, the darker the projected image is.

Mamiya C330 Serial Number Lookup Model

Luckily, the C330 has ways to combat this. For parallax error, the best (though least convenient) method is the 'Paramender' accessory, which requires a tripod. It's placed between the tripod head and the camera, and after the photo has been dialed in, focused, and set up exactly as desired in the finder, the Paramender is extended, effectively raising the camera along the film plane by the exact distance between the two lenses. This puts the taking lens in the exact place where the viewing lens was when the shot was set up.
The camera itself also has a parallax correction tool, but this is a bit more error prone. There is a

Moss growing on a tree branch, shot using the close focusing capability of the C330. You can also see this image on Flickr.

horizontal guide that drops out of the top of the finder, which gets lower in the frame as you focus closer and closer. This guide shows where you should align the top of your frame. It works well as a guide, but if you are shooting handheld or on a tripod at an angle, raising the camera to align the top of your image to the guide could easily knock your subject out of focus. Before doing this, the parallax correction dial (a ring along the outside of the Lock/Unlock lens changing dial) should be set to the focal length of the lens you are currently using.
The same horizontal guide also acts as a needle that points to a series of exposure compensation values along the left side of the finder, ranging from '1.5' to '3'. The closer you focus, the farther down the guide moves. Before you take the picture, you look at the number closest to the guide. If it's pointing at '1.5' then you need to increase your exposure by 50% (half a stop). If it's pointing at '2', then you need to double your exposure (increase by one stop), and so on.

Waist-level viewfinder with split-prism rangefinder in the center and the close-focusing exposure compensation values visible on the left.

You can also frame your subject using the 'sports finder', built in to the finder hood. By folding down the center of the front piece, you open up a window that approximates the view of the 80mm lens (a further adjustment allows for the 65mm field of view). You then looks through a smaller hole at the back of the finder hood, looking forward through the larger opening. This allows you to frame your subject without the finder screen. However, it provides no method of focusing, so I can imagine that this is only really useful when shooting at small apertures with sufficient distance to put the subject in the hyperfocal range.

Automatic Exposure

Shutters

Film Advance

The C330 In Use

Camera shake is another issue, and personally I've found it difficult to handhold at speeds below about 1/60 sec. Even then I need to brace carefully and hold my breath.

(View on Flickr)

The weight isn't all that noticeable for me in day-to-day usage, largely because I'm already accustomed to carrying a fully equipped Canon 5D Mark III, with battery pack and two batteries and a good sized L lens, with me wherever I go. If you're used to walking around with a Rollei 35 or similar compact camera with you, or even a smaller SLR/DSLR, you may find it bulky at first. You'll get used to it though.

Best Lens For Mamiya C330

(View on Flickr)

The frame advance is pretty consistent, and while there are sometimes small deltas in the space between negatives, I have never seen any overlap at all. Not even two touching frames.
Both of my lenses, particularly the 80mm, operate a bit too slow with the slowest shutter speeds. A 1-second exposure actually runs about half a stop slow. The problem is basically nonexistent by around 1/5, and at any rate I will be having them adjusted when I bring in the camera for a CLA in the near future.

(View on Flickr)

Mamiya C330 Serial Number Lookup 1233372

Happily, Mamiya makes the instruction manuals for all of their old cameras available online in PDF for, so if you're interested in buying one, I'd recommend doing what I did and download the Mamiya C330 Instruction Manual and give it a good once over so you know what you're getting.
And then get one, because you'll absolutely love it!

Mamiya C330 Digital Back

Questions? Corrections? Feel free to post a comment below!